Whilst on my recent travels in Panama I came across a European man in a bar who struck up a conversation with me about what else, food. This topic customarily has the ability to unite and impassion strangers, yet perplexingly in this instance my case fell flat; this stranger had only scornful dismissal for my beloved native cuisine…”disgusting and beige.” Although instinct urged me to defend my homeland, when prompted for a range of dishes proving the fellow wrong, beyond bangers and mash and fish and chips, I was regretfully lost for words.
If only I had visited the Black Swan in Leeds prior to this conversation.
The lovechild of the brains behind Leeds’ stalwarts, Sandinista and Smokestack, this place had the promises of a thoroughbred, and it did not disappoint. Set over 2 levels the venue is grand. Stripped back walls, exposed brick, dense wooden tables and benches give this place a rustic yet modern feel. The ground floor is a large open space with a long bar decked with beer pumps, rotating local craft beers and classics. A pizza oven sits at the back of this dark, yet cosy space, promising tasty, tasty carbs to wash these down with.
I had headed there to sample the new first floor menu, fresh off the press. So let’s crack on with the starters. For canapes we had Goat’s cheese and beetroot beignets; little deep fried of tangy goat cheese balls with a sweet and tart beetroot accompaniment. These were surprisingly light really…who doesn’t like deep fried cheese? Next up, the duck pastrami with an orange and walnut salad. A new one for me, I was pleasantly surprised by how soft and tender the meat was. The walnut provided a welcome crunch and the orange not overpowering, which is sometimes tricky when using citrus.
Black pudding and potato cake with an egg atop was a hearty and substantial meal in itself. The flavours were strong, yet balanced. Mussels in white wine followed; however these needed a bit more wine to cut through the other flavours. The onion three ways (bhaji, onion puree and red wine onions) was pleasant enough but felt like a bit of an anomaly on the menu.
The star of the starters was the braised pig’s cheek; a delicate and pretty plate of mouth-watering flavour and impossibly tender meat. It came with a pork pie puree. Yes you read correctly. Once these little pies are ready for consumption, they are banged into a blender and whizzed up nice. Some may say this is the actions of a TOTAL PHILLISTINE, I say pork pie never tasted so good. Completed by crackling and sweet and sour apple, this take on a classic was a success. I could have eaten plates of it.
The star of the starters was the braised pig’s cheek; a delicate and pretty plate of mouth-watering flavour and impossibly tender meat. It came with a pork pie puree. Yes you read correctly. Once these little pies are ready for consumption, they are banged into a blender and whizzed up nice. Some may say this is the actions of a TOTAL PHILLISTINE, I say pork pie never tasted so good. Completed by crackling and sweet and sour apple, this take on a classic was a success. I could have eaten plates of it.
Mains: A bone marrow beef burger with a beer battered pickle was good but the bun needed work. Then came pork belly with chorizo and sweetcorn puree. This was a solid, well executed dish. There was a substantial amount of meat here – surprising as the belly pork normally hits your table as a lump of crackling (and let’s be honest, fat). This place may have turned me into a pork lover finally.
Deserts brought me apple crème brulee topped with crumble and an ale cheesecake. The crème brulee was nice but I’m not sure needed the crumble….half the fun in a brulee is cracking the top, right? The cheesecake isn’t sweet at all which was peculiar at first – it won’t be for everyone, but I found it refreshingly different.
The cocktails I tried, a cosmo and an amaretto sour were fine, but didn’t match the food and were probably just to laid on to please us press! I’d say get yourself a pint of one of the many AWESOME ales downstairs and keep it British here.
I can’t wait to return to this spot for a Sunday roast (which I hear are better than your mum’s). Great British food in a warm space and I hear there is 50% when you book until 16th October! Now when someone chooses to pick on British food as being anything less than mint, I know where to take them to take those words right out of their mouth. Game, set and match, European stranger.
http://blackswanleeds.co.uk/
31 Call Lane
Leeds
LS1 7BT
Written by Erin Goodall, FoodGoblin Northern Correspondent
