Piece by Kate Antoni , FG London Correspondent
Portobello Road is in itself a hodgepodge of a place, filled with dinky shops selling heirlooms and chintz, antique cameras and vintage furs nestled amongst bars and pubs, some that you’d happily drink in and others you avoid. There’s even a juice bar and the people selling all the cheese. It’s a right of passage for every teenage Londoner. The taste of freedom and fruity Pimms. Bare legs and cold shoulders on balmy nights that turn into breakfasts on park benches and friendships that last an eternity. Fitting then, that the Portobello Gold Pub has been transformed into Gold restaurant, brainchild of Nicky House (one of the men behind Mahiki and Whisky Mist) who bought the site three years ago to preserve the neighborhood feel and stop a chain taking it over, thank Thor for that. With a facade designed by the Portuguese artist, Vhils you can’t miss it (and frankly you don’t want to!)
Sprawling over four stories, it’s a stunning space boasting all the trappings of the super cool with none of the ponce. Attracting an eclectic group of diners and drinkers with food from head chef Theo Hill, of River Cafe fame and a drinks menu that hails from the from the talented Matt Whiley and Rich Woods (aka the cocktail guy).
We started off with cocktails – a banzai Mule with a delicate mix of vodka and fresh pineapple – laced with a punchy shot of ginger. A Pensaquito followed – the Don Julio Blanco tequila shone through with smoothness and subtlety. Beautifully mixed without being fussy and all cocktails reasonably priced between £9.50-£11.00. I could have drunk these all night in the bar which sits adjoining the garden room, a burgeoning haven that spills out into a tree-filled conservatory with art work from locals Felix and Valerie von Bechtelsheim – a nice nod to the neighbours.
Dinner followed shortly after with some of Theo’s favourite dishes. These included marinated sardines on toast, a dish you may be confused by and yet Hill pulls off. Thin slices of marinated sardines presented on lightly toasted sourdough – a little under seasoned, in my opinion, but tasty nevertheless. The offerings are humble and beautifully produced. The flavours of the black tiger and datterini tomatoes excelled, transporting me to my childhood where my grandfather once grew so many tomatoes that overflowing bowls lined their hallway and every visitor (and the odd door to door salesman) would leave with big carrier bags bursting at the seams. I could taste the tomatoes as a child and I could taste them at Gold. Tomatoes and fine olive oil laced with basil and verjus. Good food done well. I appreciate the way Hill approaches food and I’m emotional about it. His passion is evocative of so many senses and the dining experience is a happy one.
The burrata charred pears and Tuscan ham sounds hackneyed and on its description I wasn’t really expecting much – we’ve done this to death – how could it be any different. Yet, I was wrong. The creamiest burrata in all the land found a happy little pear and magical things happened. It was delightful and I would urge you to try it. Dishes like charred sweetheart cabbage with bagna gauda couldn’t have been improved, so beautifully balanced – crunchy and smoky, marrying flavours and ingredients of home with influences of the Mediterranean. It isn’t fusion food per se, more impressive than that, it’s real London food – the London that we love because its reflective of everyone that lives here – the people and flavours that make home, home. The richness of diversity that exists in a neighbourhood restaurant. The nettle ravioli with sheep ricotta and hints of sorrel made me so happy that I wanted to take a portion home for lunch, which I didn’t do because I am not a reprobate.
My favourite dishes were the chicken with nduja and tomatoes. You’ll find large pieces of Cornish hen, sitting proud and plump on luscious chunks of sourdough that soak up all the juices and serve as a vehicle for joy – let’s be honest, who doesn’t love mopping up sauce with bread? Because I do and I’m thrilled that Hill thinks this is acceptable. The wood roasted potato dish served with a caraway sauekraut slaw has me salivating at this very moment – purple potatoes roasted to perfection in a wood fire oven – topped with tangy, creamy, crunchy slaw. This dish was everything to me – comforting and filling, layering flavours without being fussy. I thought about these potatoes this morning in bed, at Oxford Circus tube station during rush hour and now as I think about dinner. Perfection in a spud. Thank you, please I will come back and order another eight portions.
Deserts followed and these definitely split consensus, they were technically excellent – the semolina yogurt cake was fluffy and lightly spiced – though I was erring to find something sweeter and stickier. Accompanied by nespole which I found to be a surprising choice – it made me smile with nostalgia. I remember picking nespole off of the trees in a mountainous Mediterranean village and wondering why some were cloyingly sweet and others so sour, they blistered your tongue and made you wish you’d been eaten by mountain cats. This was the only ingredient I thought of as a little try-hard – why pick a fruit no one has heard of, that’s inconsistent in flavour and has to be imported, when a plum would do? Still, I was chuffed that they used it because I’ve never eaten it in London.
The rum baba was equally ambitious – beautifully presented with the addition of bee pollen, a touch which I enjoyed but others were less enthused by. I hear that there is a chocolate offering which I will be sampling when I go back and go back I will. Very soon.
This was an extremely delicious meal, with attentive service and a staff that care deeply about their diners and seem as excited by the food as I was. The entire evening was a delight that left me feeling full and happy with the very real anticipation of what I’ll be ordering next time.
95-97 Portobello Rd, Notting Hill, London W11 2Q
Website: https://goldnottinghill.com/
