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Ahh Roma. The city of my heart and one my top three favourite places in the world, England being one and consequently not really counting. Therefore let’s call it one of my two. ‘Why so’, one might ask, if one were interested, though tens of ones are not. Regardless, I will still tell one.

There is more than one reason which causes Rome to be so marvellous to me. Simply put, it somehow captures and encapsulates my two twin passions in life. And I’m not talking about l’amore, sadly. Food and Classics. My life’s pursuit and my academic one, respectively. Nowhere else in the world can you walk around and be faced with such a striking juxtaposition of the old and new. Ancient 1st century AD ruins poke out from windy streets, built into the structures of modern leather goods shops or coffee shops, neon signs nailed into bricks over 2000 year old. A favourite example of mine might be the old Theatre of Pompey, built in the 1st century BC. Sadly its remains and structure are long gone but follow the clues and footprints left in ancient literature to its supposed site and something quite astounding is revealed. The architecture of modern Rome reveals the ancient theatre, like a magician revealing a dove. In the midst of narrow, straight streets comes a large block of flats which interrupt the linear street with a stark curve built into them, almost in a drawn out U shape. Why? During their construction they were built on top of the ancient foundations of Pompey’s old theatre and follow the antique curve of the structure’s seating. A dichotomy of ages made seamless. Rome absorbs these contrasts, makes them her very own and projects a self that is both unique and extraordinarily special in the process.
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Spot the echoes of the ancient Theatre of Pompey in the curvature of this modern block of flats.
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The view from our little apartment
And likewise, Rome’s food is extraordinary too. It mirrors Roman culture itself; strong, lively, full of passion and honesty. These flavours are why I love Rome. Bold unapologetic food, simply plated, simply composed. A study of no more than 3 flavours usually to a dish, enhanced to their nth most degree. Too often is modern food served up to you over complicated, flounced in frills of tens of flavours, each obscuring the other, none extraordinary, none special. The Italians see things differently. That old maxim, quality not quantity, totally fulfilled – though certainly I mean quantity in terms of ingredients employed, for portion size is a big deal here.

And so indeed I love to come to Rome at least once a year to get my foodie Roman fix. Always in winter, never in summer. Summer sees baking heat and too many tourists and the re-emergence of hundreds of very average restaurants, pictured menu and statue of Julius Caesar flanking the door in tow. These vile pits are forced somewhat into hibernation during the winter when tourism is at a low and there aren’t coach tours to rip off.

The next few blogs will follow me as I journey across Rome, hungry and in search of my old and new food haunts. Walk with me as I descend into gluttony, follow me into my favourite Roma restaurants and trattorie and don’t be afraid to sneak a taste of everything I eat. If I know Rome, which I do, it will be delicious.
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FoodGoblin, moi, gets coffee in Rome.